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Open Club  ·  30 members

PC Builders

About This Club

Tech fans unite! If you want to get help, advice or share your rig, this is the place! (Primarily for Windows users, but if you manage a Hackintosh or Linux build, you're welcome, too!)
  1. What's new in this club
  2. Yeah, unfortunately, these stupid Florida prefabs do things like put the outlets and lighting for multiple rooms on one circuit. I had to map out the kitchen somewhat because I had installed a window AC in the dining room only to find I couldn't use it, the nuker, and the toaster at the same time without tripping the breaker. Same for where it was safe to put the space heaters as the circuits are weirdly arranged.. X.X
  3. There's a way to do this. I saw a demonstration years ago. You plug some kind of doohickey into an outlet and then go to the circuit box with a sensor that can pick up the signal in the wire without having to connect anything or expose any wires at the box.
  4. Woke up around 2AM and Comcast was dinking around with the Internet... So I got PRODUCTIVE! Finally added the "push" fans on my radiator. Cleaned up the cabling some and installed the fanbus so I could run all six fans off a single fan header. And, while I was at it, I decided to shut some of the people who've been whinging about my preliminary cable routing FROM TWO YEARS AGO up and neatened up my cable routing a bit more, as I have more devices now. Project Paragon is getting close to "completion" as I can get without a new vidcard.
  5. A beta BIOS later, I can get up to 2 drives working. Out of time to fart around. Synology NAS arrived this afternoon. Device Name "Wentworths" up and running and pulling parity checks now.
  6. The last month just trying to get this thing together has sorta worn me out. Going to take another stab at this. If I can't get it to work SOON, well, I have a Synology DS920+on order.
  7. Sounds like there's a short or something then with the PSU or the cable between. I didn't look, but I'm assuming that's "swap cables to test" capable unit?
  8. No. The machine simply fails to BOOT. Period. But I disconnect power to the hard drives and boom. It boots up and the SSDs come up just fine.. And I'm NOT sitting near the PSU limits. A basic power supply calculator shows the system pulling at BEST 600 Watts. And I'm sitting on a 1000W unit. Even taking into account 12V/5V/3.3V I'm not "over" anywhere. So color me stumped right now.
  9. Mine's all well below eye level, so I don't bother with them. That and the case actually Does have a controller built into it for some of the fans (LED's builtin). I'm guessing you're talking about some sort of separate RAID that the platters are part of? Did you not tell the BIOS which is the primary drive? Or maybe the board is stupid enough to dictate which SATA ports boot and which are not. Other than them somehow having a boot partition on them, I can only think of some sort of electrical short.
  10. The fit of the hard drive cages leaves a bit to be desired. Also, the screws for the casters creates a small amount of fitment issue. Also, I had to relocate the front chassis fans because they didn't fit exterior of the case and under the front bezel the way the original fan did. And finally managed to kill all the RGB stuff! YAY! Small problem. The machine is refusing to start with the hard drives for the array attached. Unsure what's going on there. At this point, I'm thinking just grab a Synology box and stuff them in there.
  11. I see your case allows for things like bottom PSU and horizontal mobo. What are your thoughts on the orientation of components and their efficiency/reliability?
  12. From the (over) estimates, it's quite obvious that I don't want to be running this all on one circuit (let alone one UPS) as you're supposed to leave a 20% safety overhead on any power source. That said, it's certainly an over estimate as the G4 and scanner likely won't be used much at all (if they're even plugged in). Taking that into account the numbers fall to: 115 V @ 13.671~15.479 A :: 1572.5~1782.05 W Rig 1, 4 screens, no other peripherals, 1 UPS: 115 V @ 12.059~12.94 A :: 1387~1489.4 W MBP, Mini, 2 screens, 1 UPS 115 V @ 1.61~2.139 A :: 185.3~246.5 W Bo
  13. So I'm still looking into the stats on each component to see what will help with this, but I'm needing help with figuring out power consumption per rig and how to safely distribute the load across the circuits / Smart UPS. I'm moving tech from one circuit in the house to another and I'm afraid that I'll end up overloading a single 15A breaker as we have no idea how the house is actually plotted out. It's entirely possible that I'm connected to medical equipment in the other room and that would be BAD to trip. Because of this, I'm going to have an electrician friend help me install
  14. Also! Before asking me about the Razer LED control stuff. I don't know. Nor do I particularly care. Frankly I can't stand the "Rainbow Puke" LED craze. So long as I can TURN ALL THAT CRAP OFF I'm good. Most people are never going to see the inside of the case anyhow. That was the point of picking up another case identical to my current one. I'm jettisoning the window panels and going with the vented panels only. I WILL be practicing clean (as possible) wiring. But my primary concern right now is getting this beast operational. Note: Glad I decided to take a pic of this. Mi
  15. Motherboard: http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/X570 Taichi Razer Edition/index.html Had a small scare this morning. My AV was whining about a reboot. So I did... And my machine took 10 minutes to boot...A system with an SSD OS disk.... Immediately started going into "Disaster Prep Mode" PSU mounted. Motherboard tray mounted. Waterblock assembled. AIO provisionally mounted in Pull configuration. (Waiting on mounting screws for the Push fans). And since the AIO is on a removable bracket, that should be an easy "to do". All SSDs mounted 12V an
  16. Link to board? Looks like a basic AT sized board almost, but I'm assuming some of the covered areas are where M.2s go.
  17. The motherboard arrived today! Have begun populating it. Doing it in waves so I can track the drives and stuff properly so I don't necessarily have to tear down to track a failure.
  18. Apparently they've begun the shady practice of auto-opting you in to their $10/month Accidental Damage plan. Instead of simply giving you a price up front. And they bury it near the bottom of the page.
  19. I'm running the GTX 970 FTW (reminder) and from the looks of it, I may be using 3+ screens. That said, I'm wondering what the effect of using the 3770k`s APU via the motherboard as well would have on overall performance. Perhaps use it for the extra port needed for something like that. Seems like we're scrolling back to here though I didn't mean to. 🤣
  20. https://www.amazon.com/Eviciv-Portable-Monitor-Display-1024X600/dp/B07L6WT77H/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=USB+monitor&qid=1618276171&refinements=p_36%3A-11000&rnid=386442011&sr=8-4 And if you're on anything NVIDIA 10** series or later, you've got support up to 4 monitors. Hell, an old GTX 780 will do 4 monitors Or were you planning to USE all 4 monitor connections? Or, if you have a spare PCI-E 16 slot, https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-8400-gs-512-p3-1301-kr/p/1FT-001K-002F6
  21. Heh, yeah I saw the Jay vid when I first thought about the concept. Unfortunately, to do what I'd want, the panel would end up being basically a little picture frame on the desk (because the CPU's on the ground). Looking at what I'm Used to seeing vs what these seem to be capable of (and the fact that you're burning a display connection), I may be better off just hoping these never break. I don't OC, so honestly it's more of a nice thing at a glance, but it does help me see if something's bogging me down without opening the task manager. The Gadgets use two, light weight background apps that a
  22. You're looking for something like AIDA64. You can buy a cheap little ($100 or less) HDMI screen (usually used for Raspberry Pi stuff. You can then use AIDA to set up the monitors. Here's a couple examples. In the second one, DO NOT use the guy's reference for cheap software. The place he's pointing to is a bulk license abuser. They buy a bulk license, meant for a business, then resell the key until it stops working.
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