3D Print Steps

[leeper48]

NEW Video Walk-thru

https://youtu.be/vVlmudp2KfU

 

 

Note: These instructions are expecting a Windows 10 install with the 64-bit version of City of Heroes running in the default location on drive C. Also expecting who ever is doing the 3D printing is experienced in its usage. Mastery of Blender isn't needed as I spell out the shortcuts but if it is your first time using it, there are loads of tutorials https://www.blender.org/support/tutorials/ (It really is one of my favorite programs, especially being free). If you have experience/access in other 3D software, you can adapt the steps as needed using those tools.

 

I know it looks like a lot of steps below but steps 1-10 are a one time occurrence and I am going into the specific shortcuts in Blender for cleanup. I can extract, cleanup and get a character printing in under 10 minutes.

 

@TalonGrayson has a streamlined solution for the install, launching and parameter swapping. Find this below in the post.

 

Software needed (All free)

 

City of Heroes [using Homecoming] https://forums.homecomingservers.com/installation-guide/

GLIntercept [Choose the x64 version] https://github.com/dtrebilco/glintercept/releases

OGLE [ogle-0.3c.bin.zip as of the writing of this] https://github.com/dgis/OGLE-for-GLIntercept/releases/tag/0.3c

Custom gliConfig.ini [attached to instructions]

Blender [open-source 3D modeling program] https://www.blender.org/

Cura [Model slicer to convert into code a 3D printer can use. Use another if you have a preference.] https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

 

1. Install City of Heroes (this should default to "C:\Games\Homecoming")
2. Install Blender
3. Install Cura
4. Install GLIntercept (this should default to "C:\Program Files\GLInterceptx64_1_3_4" as of the time of these instructions. Version number may change and you may need to update some paths in the ini.)
5. Extract OGLE (ogle-0.3c.bin.zip).
6. Go into the ogle-0.3c.bin folder extracted until you see sub folders "docs," "x64," "x86"
7. Rename folder "x64" to "OGLE"
8. Copy the "OGLE" folder you just renamed into the "C:\Program Files\GLInterceptx64_1_3_4\Plugins\" folder.
9. Go up one level to "C:\Program Files\GLInterceptx64_1_3_4\" and copy the "OpenGL32.dll" file you find there into "C:\Games\Homecoming\bin\win64\live\"
10. Copy the attached "gliConfig.ini" file (found at the bottom of this post) also into "C:\Games\Homecoming\bin\win64\live\"
11. Launch the HC Launcher.
12. Click the ... in the Homecoming button on the left column.
13. Click settings
14. Paste -useTexEnvCombine into the extra launch parameters field (Important: Remove this when you don't want to capture as this reduces the visual special effects and makes the game not look as nice. Next time you run the game after you remove this parameter you will want to go to the settings button on the log in screen and toggle the advanced graphic settings twice and then hit apply. This will reset it back to what you previously had.)
15. Exit settings
16. Launch the game by clicking the right pointing arrow in the Homecoming button
17. Once you get to the character selection screen, you can press Ctrl Shift L to test if the install worked. 
18. If it did, the machine should pause a few seconds (ie the character idle animation will halt) and then resume.
19. You can minimize to your desktop and check to see if it generated an "ogle.obj" file at "C:\Games\Homecoming\"
20. If this generated, you can go into the game fully, pose your character and repeat the Ctrl Shift L process. (it will overwrite the original "ogle.obj" so be warned)
21. NEW TIP: If you get crashes while running the game with these files installed, I highly recommend renaming the OpenGL32.dll you placed in the win64\live folder to OpenGL32.dll.off when you want to play the game normally. Just rename back to OpenGL32.dll when you want to capture again.
22. NEW TIP: Use /noparticles 1 to turn off sprites like auras and shields that wind up having to be deleted in Blender. Then use /noparticles 0 to turn them back on.
23. Open Blender and delete the default cube
24. Go to file, import OBJ
25. Go to "C:\Games\Homecoming\" and open the "ogle.obj" file.
26. Press the Tab key to go to face select mode.
27. Press M for "merge vertex" and then B for "By distance"
28. Press Shift N to normalize.
29. Press Alt Z for Xray mode
30. Drag a box to select your character
31. Press Ctrl L to select all linked faces (some extraneous face might be included)
32. Press Ctrl I to invert the selection
33. Press Del to remove the unwanted faces
34. You may need to do some individual face cleanup (Note: you may want to remove any auras for your costume and turn off toggles to cut down on artifacts generated).
35. After happy with cleanup, press Tab to go back to Object mode
36. Press Ctrl 2 to apply a subsurface modifier to smooth the blockiness.
37. With the character still selected, go to file, export STL
38. Make sure to check 'Selection Only' and 'Apply Modifiers' are checked on.
39. Name the file and export it.
40. Open Cura.
41. Press Ctrl O for open.
42. Select the STL of your character.
43. Press Ctrl A for select all.
44. Press S for scale mode.
45. Make sure 'Uniform Scaling' is checked on.
46. Scale you character up. (Note: If you capture your character in the costume editor, which is a good idea if you want to use a power animation, it will be 90% the size of a capture in the regular environment. I use 2400% for a model captured in the environment and 2640% for one captured in the costume editor)
47. Configure your print settings at your discretion but supports will likely be needed.
48. Print the model.
49. Paint/finish as you desire.
     

 

Links to where a lot of this content came from:

https://cohtitan.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=8q80mg1nopubf84e936bmqgai5&topic=4947.0

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1XF9QWSRDltgij1sYPBGctl-3XksFavU9DeneU2S5SRI/edit?usp=sharing

https://forums.homecomingservers.com/topic/1563-3d-printed-characters/

And thanks @TalonGrayson for his assistance as well.

 

 

 

gliConfig.ini

Edited February 24 by leeper48
Added tip 21 for using /noparticles to make cleanup so much easier. Shortened name to make sharing link in chat easier.

[Oklahoman]

Would somebody email me a 3D printer so I can test this out? Thanks in advance.

[TalonGrayson]

Per the above, I've streamlined steps 1-16 in the above guide with some batch files.

 

As with anything strangers on the big scary Internet send you, be cautious, because whether they're heroes or villains, they'll tell you it's safe. I encourage you to read through the source code to determine whether or not you believe this safe to use (or ask someone you trust to do it), and that includes the 3rd party elements (GLIntercept and OGLE... both of those repos are linked in the HeroOgler readme). Again, this is encouraged but not enforced.

 

Speaking of which, please read the readme. It's there for a reason 😁

 

https://github.com/TalonGrayson/hero-ogler

 

Contributions are welcome, especially if they fix issues

 

@leeper48 If/when you update your guide, I'll edit this post too.

[Oklahoman]

I'm curious what equipment and filament you are using, or might recommend. I'm considering getting an Ender 3 or an Elegoo Neptune 2 (leaning towards the Elegoo rn). I don't know much about filament other than there are different kinds and colors.

[leeper48]

Hey OK

 

I'm using a Creality CR-10S v2, same company that makes the Ender 3. I really dig it.

 

@TalonGrayson uses a resin like the Elegoo so he might have some opinions on that. I do know the resins can make a nice clean prints. They're great for figures.

 

I run eSUN PLA+ filament which runs a bit hotter (220C hot end, 65C bed temp) 

https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Printer-Filament-2-2lbs/dp/B01EKEMPHM/ref=sxts_rp_s1_0?crid=1TWBETPFFT7RS&cv_ct_cx=esun%2Bpla%2B&keywords=esun%2Bpla%2B&pd_rd_i=B01EKEMFQS&pd_rd_r=f1c2a9dd-7da9-4a80-8c85-745e7aed843e&pd_rd_w=OdE6j&pd_rd_wg=DXoEn&pf_rd_p=dc8286ba-5f1e-4679-adde-8b7fe66c128e&pf_rd_r=QXEPJ5EGD94K3R6RXXR0&qid=1646100965&sprefix=esun%2Bpla%2B%2Caps%2C73&sr=1-1-5e1b2986-06e6-4004-a85e-73bfa3ee44fe&th=1

 

I hope that helps.

[SuperPlyx]

Will this "ogle.obj" file you generate be something one could possibly make and send to someone with a printer to have printed for them?

Or can Blender save the file in a format that can be? 

[leeper48]

27 minutes ago, SuperPlyx said:

Will this "ogle.obj" file you generate be something one could possibly make and send to someone with a printer to have printed for them?

Or can Blender save the file in a format that can be? 

Steps 21-38 will run the OBJ through Blender and get it into a pretty clean STL file that can be shared with someone who has a printer.

 

[Oklahoman]

On 1/26/2022 at 10:24 AM, leeper48 said:

Go up one level to "C:\Program Files\GLInterceptx64_1_3_4\" and copy the "OpenGL32.dll" file you find there into "C:\Games\Homecoming\bin\win64\live\"

 

I could not find a \bin folder in my game directory, so I had to create it and the folders underneath. 

 

Step 18 does not create the pause you suggested, so I feel like maybe I got off track having to create those folders. I wonder - I am still using Tequila (and I pasted in the parameter you mentioned on step 14, and I wonder if these instructions were built with the new loader in mind? Maybe that loader creates these folders mentioned above?

[leeper48]

Are you on the latest launcher or still Tequila? I wonder if that might be it. If the bin folder doesn’t exist it is probably a sign. 

I reread your message. Let me check an old machine with Tequila and see if I can provide alternate instructions for the different path.

Edited March 5, 2022 by leeper48

[leeper48]

Can you send a directory snapshot of your Homecoming folder?

 

thanks

[Oklahoman]

@leeper48

 

Remember that I added the bin folder. I blacked out the player account folders. Also, I don't mind updating to the new loader, just wasn't sure that was a requirement.

[leeper48]

Thanks. I've got it and just tested on my other machine. I'm assuming you are using 64-bit and not 32.

 

Tequila 64 bit Alt Steps:

9. Go up one level to "C:\Program Files\GLInterceptx64_1_3_4\" and copy the "OpenGL32.dll" file you find there into "\hc-bin64\" inside your CoH install folder. For me it is ..\Documents\COH\

10. Copy the attached "gliConfig.ini" file also into "\hc-bin64\" inside your CoH install folder.

11. Launch the Tequila Launcher.

12. Click options down the bottom

.

.

19. You can minimize to your desktop and check to see if it generated an "ogle.obj" file at inside the root of your CoH install folder.

 

 

Let me know if this works out

Edited March 5, 2022 by leeper48
modified to reflect Tequlia's option button which is different from the new launcher's ... button.

[Oklahoman]

@leeper48 The first grab I tried was me standing in Ouro, so there was a ton of stuff to delete. Then I saw your instructions later down that suggested grabbing from a tailor - that worked better.

 

I didn't see a lot to prune after with step 33. When I imported into Cura I had a popup listing some warnings and highlighting some areas. I ignored that, resized, and went straight to a gcode file because I really have the patience of your average 3 year old.

 

It's printing right now, but will probably need to do so overnight. I had some failures today trying to print some LOTR rings and rebalanced the board before this print, so here's hoping. I'll share my results. Thanks for catching me online and checking!

 

UPDATE: Guess I need some aqua net or something, the whole thing moved once the boots were printed and it went south from there. Boots looked good though! 😀 I’ll post once I have a print. 

Edited March 6, 2022 by Oklahoman
Update

[leeper48]

Great news. Can’t wait to see it. 

[leeper48]

2 hours ago, Oklahoman said:

UPDATE: Guess I need some aqua net or something, the whole thing moved once the boots were printed and it went south from there. Boots looked good though! 😀 I’ll post once I have a print. 

I had been having a lot of drift lately too. I am printing in my basement and the ambient temp is pretty low (60F down there). I'm running the printer's hot end at 220C and the bed at 68C using eSUN PLA+ filament and it is working pretty good now.

 

Another thing I do is wipe the bed down with rubbing alcohol to get a nice clean surface.

 

Good luck.

Edited March 6, 2022 by leeper48

[Ura Hero]

12 hours ago, Oklahoman said:

UPDATE: Guess I need some aqua net or something, the whole thing moved once the boots were printed and it went south from there. Boots looked good though! 😀 I’ll post once I have a print. 

 

If you are using Cura or Prusa as the slicer, you can do a raft.  Otherwise a glue stick has given me the best results for sturdy prints when there is a small base.

Edited March 6, 2022 by Ura Hero

[Oklahoman]

I got a complete print, but as you can see I had several problems. The right arm just never worked out and may have just been a hiccup with that particular print. The whole time it was printing I could see that arm just flailing around. 🙂 The left arm looked good once I cut away the supports.

 

However, the whole thing fell into thirds as I cut away the supports, so not much to show there. Broke right at the knees and neck. I think your instructions are sound, I just need to learn more about Blender and Cura, and really the whole 3D printing process. This is my first 3D printer, and my first Benchy print was Friday evening, so I'm pretty happy to be at this point pretty quickly.

 

For anyone who cares, here is the Ender 3 I purchased for $189, here is the filament I used, and here is a flexible magnetic bed cover I ordered that should be here in a couple hours.

[leeper48]

Another tip is it's ok to use CA (superglue) and feel free to intentionally split the figures into halves (top and bottom). It can save on long/rickety support structures.

 

I also 3D print RC planes and use the CA glue on the seams all the time. The glue is stronger than the actual printed layers. 

 

I like to use this instant activator which sets the glue up in 2 seconds. 

 

Here is my latest print for my character, Ash County. I'm learning how to use my airbrush, slowly.

 

Origin

The name is, County. Ash County. I've been roaming this country for over a hundred and twenty years.

While caught in a shoot-out in a graveyard with a gang of murdering outlaws, I ducked behind a tombstone. Turns out, it was actually a cursed tablet inscribed with ancient Sumerian burial practices. When I touched it, the darkness got into my hand and cursed it. I had to cut it off just below the elbow. I had my professor pal build me a metal hand with an itchy trigger finger. The tablet became bound to me. To this day I use the dark powers it holds to try to bring the lawless to justice. 

Edited March 6, 2022 by leeper48

[Oklahoman]

I need some help now backing out of this because I'm pretty sure it's causing my game to crash A LOT. I think the problem is GLIntercept.

 

I noticed after installing all the software that the game looked different - most colors were brighter, and some colors were different (like inside the Lambda base, for instance). It didn't look wrong, just different. But like I say the game keeps crashing on me, straight to desktop.

 

I uninstalled and removed all the files mentioned above, and made sure I had no arguments in the command line, but the colors are still the same so I figure I'm gonna continue crashing. Any ideas what GLIntercept may have changed that maybe I need to reinstall?

[leeper48]

Hi check out step 14. Need to remove that parameter when not extracting.

 

Hmm, just reread and saw you said the parameter is removed. That is always the thing that changes the looks for me. Did you also return the /noparticles back to 0?

 

Follow up, when you remove that parameter, go back to your graphic options and reload what ever you had (ultra, performance, even the  customized should do etc.) That command line basically kicks everything down to make the capture work. I better add that to the notes above, too,

Edited March 7, 2022 by leeper48

[leeper48]

As for the crashing I have good idea what it is. It is specifically the OpenGL32.dll file. I don't like playing the game normally with it on (fine for the captures) so what I do when I'm not using it is rename it to OpenGL32.dll.off. I'm going to add that as a highly recommended step above after number 20.

 

Sorry for the headaches that must have caused. With it off it runs fine for me.

 

 

 

[Oklahoman]

On 1/26/2022 at 10:24 AM, leeper48 said:

Next time you run the game after you remove this parameter you will want to go to the settings button on the log in screen and toggle the advanced graphic settings twice and then hit apply. This will reset it back to what you previously had.

 

I think you just added this to step 14, and that seems to have fixed it for me. I'll have to check later if the crashing thing persists, but I'm optimistic.

 

It's been no trouble at all - I've learned a lot this weekend! I have a PC sitting here I used to play COH on, and I think I may set it up as my character capture one, just to keep everything separate. I appreciate all your help!

[leeper48]

 

1 hour ago, Oklahoman said:

On 1/26/2022 at 11:24 AM, leeper48 said:

Next time you run the game after you remove this parameter you will want to go to the settings button on the log in screen and toggle the advanced graphic settings twice and then hit apply. This will reset it back to what you previously had.

 

I think you just added this to step 14, and that seems to have fixed it for me. I'll have to check later if the crashing thing persists, but I'm optimistic.

 

I sure did. Glad you were able to help me catch that and glad it seems to be working for you as far as the graphics go.

 

Not a bad idea having a dedicated machine for these captures.

 

Best of luck and catch you later on a MSR or iTrial if you're around.

[Techwright]

On 1/26/2022 at 5:22 PM, Oklahoman said:

Would somebody email me a 3D printer so I can test this out? Thanks in advance.

Sorry, the email system won't allow any attachment over 10 mb Lbs.

[Oklahoman]

Someone online asked tonight if I'd had any more success. I did do another print that was probably twice as large, and accidentally WITHOUT supports. I thought I had that box checked but I guess not. I actually had better results... except the arms.

The arms had nothing to support them, so I ended up with spaghetti arms, which was actually kind of intriguing. I was able to split up the figure in my slicing software (I used the Creality software for this step), then I deleted everything but the torso and arms and laid those down flat. Printed perfectly. I've done some surgery to transplant 1 arm, but the other is proving a little more resistant to gorilla glue.

 

The hat did not come out as well as I would have liked but I may be able to shape it some.

 

For those curious, those are glow in the dark Green Lantern rings in the back along with an Enterprise. Currently printing a Tardis puzzle box.