[Request] Power Consumption Planning

[WanderingAries]

So I'm still looking into the stats on each component to see what will help with this, but I'm needing help with figuring out power consumption per rig and how to safely distribute the load across the circuits / Smart UPS.

 

I'm moving tech from one circuit in the house to another and I'm afraid that I'll end up overloading a single 15A breaker as we have no idea how the house is actually plotted out. It's entirely possible that I'm connected to medical equipment in the other room and that would be BAD to trip. Because of this, I'm going to have an electrician friend help me install a dedicated breaker for some or all of the load. I'll likely ask for a 20A breaker, but don't want to overload that one either as I'm adding tech beyond what I'm running right now and don't want to be stuck in a corner power wise. As you can tell, this is a little out of my normal knowledge range.

 

After looking up most of the components, I started to realize that the Internal component power ratings were basically irrelevant for the purpose of the discussion, but I left them here since I found them.

 

Estimated Combined Usage: 115 V @ 15.418~17.348 A :: 1773.4~1997.05 W

Circuit Calculations: 115 V @ 15 A = 1725 W; 115 V @ 20 A = 2300 W 

 

Reference of tech involved:

Computer #1

Note: I've adjusted the build based on tech not needed once moved

• Triple Boot:
  • Windows 7 x64
  • Windows 10 x64
  • USB/Cloud based work boot
• Thermaltake Chaser Series Chaser MK-I Black SECC Extra Big ATX Tower Computer Case
  • Thermaltake 140 x 140 x 25mm Case cooler (Pushing out)
    • Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A
  • Thermaltake AF0032 120mm Blue LED Case cooler (Pulling in from below)
    • Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A
  • Thermaltake 2 x 200 x 200 x 30mm Multicolor LED Fan (Top, Pushing out)
    • Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A
  • Thermaltake 1 x 200 x 200 x 30mm Multicolor LED Fan (Side, Pulling in)
    • Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A
  • Thermaltake 1 x 200 x 200 x 30mm Multicolor LED Fan (Front, Pulling in)
    • Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A
• Thermaltake SP-1000M 1000W ATX 12V 2.3 & EPS 12V 2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
  • Rated Electrical Draw: 115 V @ 12 A
• GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
• Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge Quad-Core 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W BX80637I73770K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000
  • CPU: Rated Electrical Draw: 77 W
  • Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (Push-Pull Config)
    • Rated Electrical Draw: 2.64 W
  • Cooler Master Blade Master 120 - Sleeve Bearing 120mm PWM Cooling Fan for Computer Cases, CPU Coolers, and Radiators (Push-Pull Config)
    • Rated Electrical Draw: 2.64 W
• G.SKILL Ares Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C10D-16GAO
  • Rated Electrical Draw: 1.50 V each
• EVGA GeForce GTX 970 04G-P4-2978-KR 4GB FTW GAMING w/ACX 2.0, Silent Cooling Graphics Card
  • Rated Electrical Draw: 170 W
• LITE-ON 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB Cache SATA Blu-ray Burner with 3D Playback iHBS212-08 LightScribe Support
• Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) (OS/App drive)
• Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - mSATA Internal SSD (MZ-M5E250BW) (Cache Drive, Sys Temp)
• Seagate BarraCuda 2TB Internal Hard Drive HDD – 2.5 Inch SATA 6 Gb/s 5400 RPM 128MB Cache for PC Laptop (Data Drive, pulled from the MBP build after SSD upgrade)
• WD Black 4TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD4001FAEX (Assigned to backup the OS drive and keep copies of the other devices I service)
• Seagate Exos 12TB Internal Hard Drive Enterprise HDD – 3.5 Inch 6Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB Cache for Enterprise, Data Center (Archive drive for AV project)

Peripherals

• Asus VP228HE 21.5” Full HD 1920x1080 1ms HDMI VGA Eye Care Monitor,Blacklight

  • Will start with 2 of these and expand to 4 for this rig

  • Rated Electrical Draw: 0.5~21.1 W each

• Logitech Illuminated Ultrathin Keyboard K740 with Laser-Etched Backlit Keyboard and Soft-Touch Palm Rest - Black

• Logitech M500 Corded Mouse – Wired USB Mouse for Computers and Laptops, with Hyper-Fast Scrolling, Dark Gray

• Canon CanoScan 9000F MKII Photo, Film and Negative Scanner, Flatbed

  • Rated Electrical Draw: 0.9~15 W

• HP ENVY Photo 7855 All in One Photo Printer with Wireless Printing, HP Instant Ink ready, Works with Alexa

  • Rated Electrical Draw: 0.2~13.95 W

• CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower, Black

  • Rated Electrical Draw: 5~25 W each

  • One is already handling the network and will likely share the Peripheral load

  • A second will be purchased to handle the main rig and as much of the peripherals as feasible  

 

Computer #2

Note: I've recently swapped the secondary HDD for and SSD

• 
• Rated Electrical Draw: 115 V @ 1.5 A (85 W Charger)

 

Mods since purchase:

• HDD upgraded to:
  • Samsung SSD 860 EVO 512GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (OS/App drive)
  • Partition Schema: Mojave, Catalina, (Patched) Big Sur
• Optical Drive moved into external enclosure and replaced by:
  • Samsung SSD 860 EVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (Time Machine / Shared Data)

Peripherals

• Asus VP228HE 21.5” Full HD 1920x1080 1ms HDMI VGA Eye Care Monitor,Blacklight
  • For use as a 2nd screen
  • Rated Electrical Draw: 0.5~21.1 W

 

Computer #3

Note: I'm looking into possibly add more accessories, powered hubs, etc

• 2020 Apple Mac Mini with Apple M1 Chip (8GB RAM, 256GB SSD Storage)
  • Rated Electrical Draw: 6.8~39 W

 

Peripherals

• Asus VP228HE 21.5” Full HD 1920x1080 1ms HDMI VGA Eye Care Monitor,Blacklight

  • Rated Electrical Draw: 0.5~21.1 W

• Multi-Device Bluetooth Keyboard with Touchpad - Jelly Comb Wireless TV Keyboard with Multi-Touch Big Size Trackpad, Support 3 Devices for Smart TV, Laptop, Mac, iPad, PC, Android - K071

  • Still pondering how I want to handle keyboard/mouse streamlining, but this works for now

• WD 2TB Elements Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 (Time Machine / Data)

 

Computer #4

Note: This is the 'for fun' rig that I may simply find a new home for

• 
• 
• Rated Electrical Draw: 115 V @ 200 W Max

 

Mods since purchase:

• I'm iffy on the exact add-ons, but this is what I 'believe' is currently in it
• Custom 1 Ghz CPU
• 2 Gb RAM
• HDD replaced with a pair of 500 GB ATA 133 drives
  • Dual boot: OS 9.2.2 / MacOS 10.5
• 4+1 Port USB 2.0 PCI card
• Dual header IDE 133 PCI card
• AGP GPU is likely an upgrade as well
• Monitor is connected to one of those powered bricks because of the special Apple display connector

Edited May 3, 2021 by WanderingAries

[WanderingAries]

From the (over) estimates, it's quite obvious that I don't want to be running this all on one circuit (let alone one UPS) as you're supposed to leave a 20% safety overhead on any power source. That said, it's certainly an over estimate as the G4 and scanner likely won't be used much at all (if they're even plugged in).

 

Taking that into account the numbers fall to: 115 V @ 13.671~15.479 A :: 1572.5~1782.05 W

 

Rig 1, 4 screens, no other peripherals, 1 UPS: 115 V @ 12.059~12.94 A :: 1387~1489.4 W

MBP, Mini, 2 screens, 1 UPS 115 V @ 1.61~2.139 A :: 185.3~246.5 W

Both Peripherals, no UPS:  115 V @ 0.01~0.25 A :: 1.1~28.95 W

 

So I guess that's me answering my own question and having Way too much fun with basic algebra. :p

[Ironblade]

On 5/2/2021 at 7:51 PM, WanderingAries said:

I'm moving tech from one circuit in the house to another and I'm afraid that I'll end up overloading a single 15A breaker as we have no idea how the house is actually plotted out.

There's a way to do this.  I saw a demonstration years ago.  You plug some kind of doohickey into an outlet and then go to the circuit box with a sensor that can pick up the signal in the wire without having to connect anything or expose any wires at the box.

[WanderingAries]

18 hours ago, Ironblade said:

There's a way to do this.  I saw a demonstration years ago.  You plug some kind of doohickey into an outlet and then go to the circuit box with a sensor that can pick up the signal in the wire without having to connect anything or expose any wires at the box.

 

Yeah, unfortunately, these stupid Florida prefabs do things like put the outlets and lighting for multiple rooms on one circuit. I had to map out the kitchen somewhat because I had installed a window AC in the dining room only to find I couldn't use it, the nuker, and the toaster at the same time without tripping the breaker. Same for where it was safe to put the space heaters as the circuits are weirdly arranged..  X.X