WanderingAries

Set the process to realtime? Manually pause system updates for like a week? Bribe it with candy?

I do certainly Try to crop at least for sure.

True enough, I guess I just never thought about using an external site (beyond sourcing memes).

So many of us are aware that you can only put so many images in each posting, but I wasn't quite aware of the following until I stumbled upon it looking for a forum setting. Now obviously we don't want to eat up the team's storage allocation, but I was a bit taken back when I saw the limit. Has this been reviewed by the team at all? I don't know if this is just comments or includes my guides, but while I'm notorious for using up storage on personal devices, I've never done this to my knowledge. 😛

Game aside, run through Windows Update a few times to make sure you've got that squared away. I'd pay attention to other apps as well to see if it is giving issues with those.

Sounds like there's a short or something then with the PSU or the cable between. I didn't look, but I'm assuming that's "swap cables to test" capable unit?

What they said and obviously this works for those using Other launchers as well. So long as none share a root directory, then all is well.

Yeah, not everyone knows the old commands, so having something like this for personalization Would be cool.

Mine's all well below eye level, so I don't bother with them. That and the case actually Does have a controller built into it for some of the fans (LED's builtin). I'm guessing you're talking about some sort of separate RAID that the platters are part of? Did you not tell the BIOS which is the primary drive? Or maybe the board is stupid enough to dictate which SATA ports boot and which are not. Other than them somehow having a boot partition on them, I can only think of some sort of electrical short.

You'll know by the 100% auto-follow and random attack patterns. That and you'll get to see how well their' V2T auto-correct works. :p

Which means we're All old. :p

This made me consider looking into it in general (again), but I never really looked hard enough before to see if it was worth the tweaking as I'm not sure what negative side effects it may have. I did come across this which happens to include some testing instructions and a Nice list of DNS servers. https://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/guide-best-fastest-dns-servers-ps4

I see your case allows for things like bottom PSU and horizontal mobo. What are your thoughts on the orientation of components and their efficiency/reliability?

So how long before you build a Quantum Computing Build so you can have Yesterday's cores too? :p

From the (over) estimates, it's quite obvious that I don't want to be running this all on one circuit (let alone one UPS) as you're supposed to leave a 20% safety overhead on any power source. That said, it's certainly an over estimate as the G4 and scanner likely won't be used much at all (if they're even plugged in). Taking that into account the numbers fall to: 115 V @ 13.671~15.479 A :: 1572.5~1782.05 W Rig 1, 4 screens, no other peripherals, 1 UPS: 115 V @ 12.059~12.94 A :: 1387~1489.4 W MBP, Mini, 2 screens, 1 UPS 115 V @ 1.61~2.139 A :: 185.3~246.5 W Both Peripherals, no UPS: 115 V @ 0.01~0.25 A :: 1.1~28.95 W So I guess that's me answering my own question and having Way too much fun with basic algebra. :p

So I'm still looking into the stats on each component to see what will help with this, but I'm needing help with figuring out power consumption per rig and how to safely distribute the load across the circuits / Smart UPS. I'm moving tech from one circuit in the house to another and I'm afraid that I'll end up overloading a single 15A breaker as we have no idea how the house is actually plotted out. It's entirely possible that I'm connected to medical equipment in the other room and that would be BAD to trip. Because of this, I'm going to have an electrician friend help me install a dedicated breaker for some or all of the load. I'll likely ask for a 20A breaker, but don't want to overload that one either as I'm adding tech beyond what I'm running right now and don't want to be stuck in a corner power wise. As you can tell, this is a little out of my normal knowledge range. After looking up most of the components, I started to realize that the Internal component power ratings were basically irrelevant for the purpose of the discussion, but I left them here since I found them. Estimated Combined Usage: 115 V @ 15.418~17.348 A :: 1773.4~1997.05 W Circuit Calculations: 115 V @ 15 A = 1725 W; 115 V @ 20 A = 2300 W Reference of tech involved: Computer #1 Note: I've adjusted the build based on tech not needed once moved Triple Boot: Windows 7 x64 Windows 10 x64 USB/Cloud based work boot Thermaltake Chaser Series Chaser MK-I Black SECC Extra Big ATX Tower Computer Case Thermaltake 140 x 140 x 25mm Case cooler (Pushing out) Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A Thermaltake AF0032 120mm Blue LED Case cooler (Pulling in from below) Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A Thermaltake 2 x 200 x 200 x 30mm Multicolor LED Fan (Top, Pushing out) Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A Thermaltake 1 x 200 x 200 x 30mm Multicolor LED Fan (Side, Pulling in) Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A Thermaltake 1 x 200 x 200 x 30mm Multicolor LED Fan (Front, Pulling in) Rated Electrical Draw: 9~12 V @ 0.3 A Thermaltake SP-1000M 1000W ATX 12V 2.3 & EPS 12V 2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply Rated Electrical Draw: 115 V @ 12 A GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge Quad-Core 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W BX80637I73770K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 CPU: Rated Electrical Draw: 77 W Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (Push-Pull Config) Rated Electrical Draw: 2.64 W Cooler Master Blade Master 120 - Sleeve Bearing 120mm PWM Cooling Fan for Computer Cases, CPU Coolers, and Radiators (Push-Pull Config) Rated Electrical Draw: 2.64 W G.SKILL Ares Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C10D-16GAO Rated Electrical Draw: 1.50 V each EVGA GeForce GTX 970 04G-P4-2978-KR 4GB FTW GAMING w/ACX 2.0, Silent Cooling Graphics Card Rated Electrical Draw: 170 W LITE-ON 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB Cache SATA Blu-ray Burner with 3D Playback iHBS212-08 LightScribe Support Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) (OS/App drive) Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - mSATA Internal SSD (MZ-M5E250BW) (Cache Drive, Sys Temp) Seagate BarraCuda 2TB Internal Hard Drive HDD – 2.5 Inch SATA 6 Gb/s 5400 RPM 128MB Cache for PC Laptop (Data Drive, pulled from the MBP build after SSD upgrade) WD Black 4TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD4001FAEX (Assigned to backup the OS drive and keep copies of the other devices I service) Seagate Exos 12TB Internal Hard Drive Enterprise HDD – 3.5 Inch 6Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB Cache for Enterprise, Data Center (Archive drive for AV project) Peripherals Asus VP228HE 21.5” Full HD 1920x1080 1ms HDMI VGA Eye Care Monitor,Blacklight Will start with 2 of these and expand to 4 for this rig Rated Electrical Draw: 0.5~21.1 W each Logitech Illuminated Ultrathin Keyboard K740 with Laser-Etched Backlit Keyboard and Soft-Touch Palm Rest - Black Logitech M500 Corded Mouse – Wired USB Mouse for Computers and Laptops, with Hyper-Fast Scrolling, Dark Gray Canon CanoScan 9000F MKII Photo, Film and Negative Scanner, Flatbed Rated Electrical Draw: 0.9~15 W HP ENVY Photo 7855 All in One Photo Printer with Wireless Printing, HP Instant Ink ready, Works with Alexa Rated Electrical Draw: 0.2~13.95 W CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower, Black Rated Electrical Draw: 5~25 W each One is already handling the network and will likely share the Peripheral load A second will be purchased to handle the main rig and as much of the peripherals as feasible Computer #2 Note: I've recently swapped the secondary HDD for and SSD Rated Electrical Draw: 115 V @ 1.5 A (85 W Charger) Mods since purchase: HDD upgraded to: Samsung SSD 860 EVO 512GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (OS/App drive) Partition Schema: Mojave, Catalina, (Patched) Big Sur Optical Drive moved into external enclosure and replaced by: Samsung SSD 860 EVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (Time Machine / Shared Data) Peripherals Asus VP228HE 21.5” Full HD 1920x1080 1ms HDMI VGA Eye Care Monitor,Blacklight For use as a 2nd screen Rated Electrical Draw: 0.5~21.1 W Computer #3 Note: I'm looking into possibly add more accessories, powered hubs, etc 2020 Apple Mac Mini with Apple M1 Chip (8GB RAM, 256GB SSD Storage) Rated Electrical Draw: 6.8~39 W Peripherals Asus VP228HE 21.5” Full HD 1920x1080 1ms HDMI VGA Eye Care Monitor,Blacklight Rated Electrical Draw: 0.5~21.1 W Multi-Device Bluetooth Keyboard with Touchpad - Jelly Comb Wireless TV Keyboard with Multi-Touch Big Size Trackpad, Support 3 Devices for Smart TV, Laptop, Mac, iPad, PC, Android - K071 Still pondering how I want to handle keyboard/mouse streamlining, but this works for now WD 2TB Elements Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 (Time Machine / Data) Computer #4 Note: This is the 'for fun' rig that I may simply find a new home for Rated Electrical Draw: 115 V @ 200 W Max Mods since purchase: I'm iffy on the exact add-ons, but this is what I 'believe' is currently in it Custom 1 Ghz CPU 2 Gb RAM HDD replaced with a pair of 500 GB ATA 133 drives Dual boot: OS 9.2.2 / MacOS 10.5 4+1 Port USB 2.0 PCI card Dual header IDE 133 PCI card AGP GPU is likely an upgrade as well Monitor is connected to one of those powered bricks because of the special Apple display connector

Showing off the new space I have to deal with now. This will better help me decide how to proceed with my furniture and tech purchases.

I suppose an update would be helpful. Here's where I'm at for the moment: First, I had a mini-heart attack ...but it all survived without even a ding. What was: What I'm starting with now:

That's basically what I was thinking of. Like, when I use WMP to "balance" all the music to the same range so that I don't have to go deaf when I move from one genre to another in the car with my digital library (extremely wide range of genres). Yes, I know that different types of balancing can have a negative effect on quality, but for the types of sounds we're talking about, I don't think it would be a big issue.

Bad fingers, no donut

Considering you have full control over who can do what, yeah, a properly setup SG shouldn't have the issue. That said, until they can rework the code to allow MUCH larger SGs, then I'm not sure something like this would Yet get traction. I'd like to see it added to the in-game SG roster list interface once it gets an overhaul.

That's it and can be accessed by clicking the Account button above

You can set the Task Manager to "stay on top" btw. Doing this, you Should be able to test the above, but I wouldn't recommend playing that way unless it's on another monitor or you have enough screen space (higher resolution than 1080p).

IDK if it even would work, but I suppose you Could identify the sound files, extract them, use some sort of sound editor to reduce their standard output volume, place the altered files into the corresponding /data subfolder. For reference (I think)

Link to board? Looks like a basic AT sized board almost, but I'm assuming some of the covered areas are where M.2s go.