WanderingAries

Not related to the thread, but I'd suggest you have a GM change your forum name to something more PID secure. Unless that's something the user can do? *coughs*@GM Tahquitz*coughs*

Correct, I think it'd be best to see it as 3 per bus max depending on the host hardware.

If accessible, I've always set the fan profile to On/Full on laptops at this point. Not on my MBP though as I can use MacFanControl for that on all the installed OS'.

And no matter what the vender says, You're not taking the DVI -> VGA in a happy fun way without a converter. Pretty sure you dove in my browsing history for that one. Specifically when I was deciding on which way to convert for my GTX 970, dual monitor setup (pre-purchase of said monitors). :p In my reading, I found that DP will chain 3 displays for reference, but I forget the rez maxium on that. In my testing of using VGA vs HDMI (1.4) on this 40" TV, the VGA allowed more range of resolutions, but I can't remember the clarity difference. I know I got a lot more screen space though. >.<

I suppose a clarification would be that the monitor(s) I referenced in my own purchase were HDMI/VGA only and DP isn't as common on laptops quite yet. Well, not without a USB-C -> DP adaptor. You "shouldn't" find VGA on modern laptops at all actually, so HDMI or USB-C are really the only options unless it comes with DP.

That's probably really nice to have for gaming on one display. In prep for W@H, I ended up getting a pair of these because running dual VGA wasn't going to be easy with the custom/ubber-secure environment of our company. I still wanna shoot the person who thought running a VM within another VM inside of a restricted user account was a good idea. I'm just glad I got smart and installed it on an isolated SSD for when it decides to crash/corrupt the OS.

Mostly relies on your connection choice. IE: Standard HDMI (non-4k TV) is restricted to a max of 1920x1080 where as the VGA connection will go higher. I sadly found this out when I switched, but stuck with HDMI (for now) because of the Audio pass-through. Using VGA, you have to have an AUX cable as well unless you're using standalone speakers.

Just an aside, changing things like the HDD, Mobo, and other core components can cause your OS' license to invalidate. It's possible to get it reactivated, but it can cause some issues. Simply booting an OS on essentially new hardware (new Mobo) is luck as it is in part because of reasons mentioned above. It's always best to keep your user data separate from the OS drive, but apps don't like that much either sometimes. Games like CoX are somewhat lenient with being dropped into a new environment (have to revalidate/install things normally).

If there's doubt on which version you have, Hold the Windows key and Press the Break key to bring up the System Info screen. It'll be very explicit as to what you have.

Checkout the links in My sig as one of them (I can't see them right now to say which) leads you to a full document on how this works.

My custom PC has that, but I've never seen a laptop that does. It came to mind, but I'd dismissed it partially because navigating a UEFI can be confusing for many.

Yeah, that'll sure put a damper on expectations. :/

Follow this and let me know what you see (if anything): https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c02731962

Yeah, I'm wondering if you have a driver issue then, but Just in case, flip it over and look at the sticker. You should see the model number it mentioned. May be on your box too. If it doesn't match, then get with the place you purchased it!

This is what to expect if you only have the Iris: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Intel-Iris-Plus-Graphics-G7-Ice-Lake-64-EU-Laptop-GPU.422866.0.html

If you have the actual pic, then it should help as this has data, but I can't read/see it.

You should be seeing software for the NVidia and Intel chips in Control Panels and in the Windows alphabetical software list (start menu). You may have a GeForce Experience software installed as well.

That "should" be under Display Adaptor I found these for reference. The short of it, need to smack HP for paring this up with the Iris. https://laptopmedia.com/comparisons/nvidia-geforce-mx250-vs-intel-iris-plus-g7-the-nvidia-gpu-offers-better-performance-at-lower-cost/ https://technical.city/en/video/GeForce-MX250 https://benchmarks.ul.com/hardware/gpu/NVIDIA+GeForce+MX250+(25W)+review

Ok, so this is where we get important information. Because it has both Discrete and Integrated GPUs, then you need to make SURE that it's using the MX250 when gaming. These things will auto-switch on their own and some models are known to guess wrong (and end up using the APU). So we need to make sure to have the settings related to this concept identified and configured (may need to disable the APU's GFU component.

https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-pavilion-15-cs3000-laptop-pc-series/29133460/model/29133461 Are you sure this is the model with just the APU (Intel GFX) and not one with a dedicated GPU as well? The CTO is a general term for a LARGE range of devices, so I can't get the specific model (it's likely a customized build). If you got a bill of sale, then it should have the device's specific configuration. While a brand new device Shouldn't have any issues with This game and an APU, there's likely some Intel Graphics settings to look at (again, assuming APU) for optimizing gameplay. Also, make sure you've already done the basics like white listing the game in your AV software (the whole game folder). Make sure you don't have stuff downloading in the background like OneDrive at the time (you can't tell if the OS is updating without looking either). Beyond that, we'd want to look at your local network bandwidth usage. How many devices are sharing how much, etc. Run a speedtest.net and see what the results are for that just to make sure you're getting what you pay for. Knowing where you are in relation to the router (number/kind of walls, etc between) is helpful. About the APU design: If it is, then you're sharing the system RAM with the GFX chip and even that is likely only getting say upto 1.5Gb on its own (I'd know more with better spec breakdown). You have to figure that Win10 runs decent on most machines with 4Gb RAM (50-75% used by the system) , that leaves ~4Gb for apps and the APU. The game likely wants 1.5-2Gb of RAM itself, so the numbers are pretty tight, but feasible/playable and while having a reasonable margin.

Obligatory:

Everything else aside, most tech is lucky to make it past 5-10 years on average and laptops even less due mostly to the components being so close together (speeds up heat related failures). As a general rule, I always say use it for as long as it lasts, but I'd plan for something newer in the relative future as there wouldn't be a good reason to keep patching up parts on this old of a device.

Psh, if you knew the Half of it...this rain isn't helping either. X.X

Yeah, it feels like a Fallout-Lite in that respect, but that coincides with the size of the zones as well, so maybe it's intentional. Hence why I tried not to spend the full $60 on the game.

I think I'll go try a stronger pain med next time then. >.<