System Specs

[WanderingAries]

I kind of needed this written out for another topic, but why not have a spot everyone can use, right? 

 

Post those specs!

 

Current Specs: (Upgraded since sunset)

Windows 7 x64 / Windows 10 / Windows 11 "Isolated" booting

 

Spoiler

 

• Thermaltake Chaser Series Chaser MK-I (VN300M1W2N) Black SECC Extra Big ATX Tower Computer Case Support ATX PS2 Power Supply
  • Thermaltake AF0032 120mm Blue LED Case cooler (Pulling in from below)
  • Thermaltake 2 x 200 x 200 x 30mm Multicolor LED Fan (Top, Pushing out)
  • Thermaltake 1 x 200 x 200 x 30mm Multicolor LED Fan (Side, Pulling in)
  • SilverStone All Black Sleeved 1-to-2 Sleeved PWM Fan Splitter Cable (CPF01) (For when you run out of fan headers)
  • Rosewill SATA Cable 90 Degree Right Angle SATA III 6.0 Gbps, SATA Cable 12 Inches, SATA 3 Cable - 12 Inches, Red (Reduce crimping)
• Thermaltake SP-1000M 1000W ATX 12V 2.3 & EPS 12V 2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
• GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
• Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge Quad-Core 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W BX80637I73770K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000
  • Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound AS5-3.5G (For those that care)
  • Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan
  • Cooler Master Blade Master 120 - Sleeve Bearing 120mm PWM Cooling Fan for Computer Cases, CPU Coolers, and Radiators (Push-Pull Config)
• G.SKILL Ares Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C10D-16GAO
• EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti FTW3 ULTRA GAMING 8GB GDDR6 Video Card (08G-P5-3667-KL)
• LITE-ON 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB Cache SATA Blu-ray Burner with 3D Playback iHBS212-08 LightScribe Support
• TP-Link WiFi 6E AXE5400 PCIe WiFi Card, Bluetooth 5.3, WPA3, 802.11axe Tri Band Wireless Adapter with MU-MIMO
• Samsung SSD 870 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-77E500B/AM) (OS/App drive) ***Primary OS drive***
• Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) (OS/App drive) ***One drive for each Secondary OS***
• Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - mSATA Internal SSD (MZ-M5E250BW) (Cache Drive, Sys Temp)
• Seagate EXOS 12TB Internal Hard Drive Enterprise HDD – 3.5 Inch 6Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB Cache for Enterprise, Data Center (Now the primary Data drive / Archive drive for AV project / Backup drive for all managed systems)
• Logitech K800 Wireless Illuminated Keyboard — Backlit Keyboard, Fast-Charging, Dropout-Free 2.4GHz Connection
• Logitech Performance MX Wireless Mouse
• CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower (Because I live in FL)

 

 

Beauty Shots: 

 

Spoiler

 

I color coded the power cables with zip ties

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 15, 2023 by WanderingAries
Lazybutt added pics and condensed the post with spoilers

[Greycat]

Stuffed in a Fractal Design Focus-G:

Asus Prime X370 Pro

Ryzen 7 1700, stock cooler.

GeForce GTX 1080, 8 Gb

32 Gb RAM

250 Gb Samsung M.2 SSD boot drive

2x2 Tb Firecuda drives for games, storage, etc.

DVD-RW (and it's a pain finding cases with an optical drive bay these days.)

2x27" 1920x1080 AOC monitors.

Stuck in a wireless card of some flavor or other. (TPLink 802.11ac internal card. No USB dongles.)

I've somehow gone from Logitech to Razer KB and mouse. And while I thought it was kind of silly or useless at first, being able to do colored regions on the keyboard for some individual games has been kind of nice. (Keep forgetting what is doing what in MWO for some of the lesser used keys.)

 

Honestly not *thrilled* with the firecuda drives, considering replacing them with larger WD Blacks or standard Barracudas. (They're hybrids.)

 

Since it's been a few years, I may look into updating the processor. RAM's fine. Considering an RTX card, as well - possibly as a secondary to help with rendering things, actually. Just don't want to drop the cash on it at the moment.

[WanderingAries]

On ‎3‎/‎29‎/‎2020 at 11:11 PM, Greycat said:

Honestly not *thrilled* with the firecuda drives, considering replacing them with larger WD Blacks or standard Barracudas. (They're hybrids.)

 

Since it's been a few years, I may look into updating the processor. RAM's fine. Considering an RTX card, as well - possibly as a secondary to help with rendering things, actually. Just don't want to drop the cash on it at the moment.

Before SSDs were of reasonable price, the Hybrids were a great money saving alternative, now they're kind niche. TBH, get a good sized SSD (256Gb+) for your OS/Apps/Games and a separate HDD (just keep the Kudas to save money) for your data. Don't forget a dedicated drive for backing everything up as well as an external/removable drive for the redundant backup.

[Greycat]

I have little that I worry about backing up. Even most of my photos are "Eh, need to be able to see this tiny number." The stuff I actually want is already backed up in at least two places.

 

[Hyperstrike]

Introducing

GODZILLA!

 

Monitors:
3 x Dell U2718Q  (4K)
Monitor Mount:
Mount-It! MI-773

System:
Case:
Thermaltake Core X9 Case
Motherboard:
Asus P6T WS Pro
Power:
SeaSonic Platinum PLATINUM-860 Power Supply
APC Back-UPS Pro 1500 S UPS
2x Belkin 12- Outlet Pivot-Plug Surge Protector
CPU:
i7 970 (6 physical cores (12 logical), 3.2Ghz)
Memory:
24GB
Disks:
Samsung Evo 850 500GB SSD
2 x Western Digital RE Drives 1TB
1 x HGST Deskstar NAS 6TB

1 x Western Digital MyBook Cloud NAS 1TB
1 x Western Digital MyCloud EX2 Ultra NAS 2 x 6TB in RAID1
Video:
Zotac GeForce RTX 2060 AMP 6GB GDDR6
Cooling:
Default case fans for Core X9.
NZXT Kraken X61 280mm AIO CPU Cooler
Networking:
Netgear JGS524 Gigabit Switch
Keyboard:
Logitech G510
Mouse:
Steel Series Rival 310
Headset:
Steel Series Arctis 5
Speakers
Logitech Z313 2.1

Table:
Ikea Linnmon Tabletop
4 x Adils Table Legs

[WanderingAries]

On ‎4‎/‎2‎/‎2020 at 10:24 PM, Hyperstrike said:

Godzilla

 

Also, clean up those cables! :p

[WanderingAries]

For testing purposes as the performance isn't that great for CoX (not why I bought it):

 

 

Mods since purchase:

• HDD upgraded to:
  • Samsung SSD 860 EVO 512GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) (OS/App drive)
  • Partition Schema: Mojave, Catalina, Bootcamp / Win10.1909
• Optical Drive moved into external enclosure and replaced by:
  • Samsung SSD 860 EVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E2T0B/AM) (Time Machine / Shared Data)
    • Upgraded from the Seagate HDD due to fear that the HDD wasn't handling the VM solution it was intended for as I've been experiencing bad read/write times (or so it felt as I don't have testing tools on the Mac for it like on PC)

_{*Yes, I paid WAY too much, but got what I was aiming for at the time}

Edited March 18, 2021 by WanderingAries

[WanderingAries]

On ‎3‎/‎31‎/‎2020 at 8:59 PM, Greycat said:

I have little that I worry about backing up. Even most of my photos are "Eh, need to be able to see this tiny number." The stuff I actually want is already backed up in at least two places.

 

Understandable, that's how my cellphone pics end up living for the most part. That and household projects I want to pre-pre-pre-plan. The rig up top is designed for Editing, Casual Gaming, and originally for Multi-OS booting (100% OSX compatible!). I stopped doing the last bit because I think it was messing with my system clock when swapping back to Windows. I now have a better understanding of how to isolate the OS', but haven't felt like playing with it again (considering I now have the MBP).

[Greycat]

Heh. Ages ago (talking about multibooting,) I had a system - 486DX/2-50 with a whopping 8 Mb of RAM (wanted to double it but that would have been $1400) and about 350 Mb hard drive. (I had to keep myself from correcting that to Gb.) I managed to partition that sucker, at one time, into PC/DOS-7 (with WIn3.1,) Windows 95 and OS/2 (don't remember if I was running 2.1 or 3 at that time... 2.1 had about 30 floppies to go through.) Think I managed to get very early slackware on there, too. At other times it had BeOS. Really liked OS/2 and BeOS. Pity IBM kept shooting itself in the foot on the first one, and the second didn't get more support.

 

(I also remember updating to a blazing fast 14.4 modem. DOS, OS/2? No problem, change the jumpers on install for the proper COM and IRQ ports, change the parameters in a config file, golden. WIn95? Decided it was really a mouse on Com5 and required a good hour or so of fighting before it worked. Good old early Plug'n'pray...)

[Hyperstrike]

3 hours ago, WanderingAries said:

Also, clean up those cables! :p

Bite me.  That's approximately 30 minutes after I moved the system into the house.

[Hyperstrike]

3 hours ago, WanderingAries said:

_{*Yes, I paid WAY too much, but got what I was aiming for at the time}

You got a handbag that says "Gucci" on it...

[Hyperstrike]

3 hours ago, Greycat said:

Heh. Ages ago...

Don't make me pull my dentures out and hit you with them youngster...

My first IBM-compatible PC was a ballsy *GUFFAW* 8088.

Did I have a Turbo button?

YOU DAMN BETCHA!

Did it do anything?

OH HELL NAW!

[Greycat]

... amusingly, the "turbo" button (as I recall) was supposed to *slow down* the PC...

 

 

[WanderingAries]

Heh, IDK what my first thing I used was, but it only had DOS :p

 

[Hyperstrike]

On 4/4/2020 at 11:49 AM, Greycat said:

... amusingly, the "turbo" button (as I recall) was supposed to *slow down* the PC...

That's because the button could be wired backward, so the functionality was reversed..

Wired right, the basic purpose of the button was to allow chips faster than 4.77Mhz to run at full speed.
But you'd turn it off for games with times locked to the CPU, otherwise they became unplayably fast (try playing old Gold Box D&D games on a 600Mhz P3 without special software).

 

[Greycat]

1 hour ago, Hyperstrike said:

But you'd turn it off for games with times locked to the CPU, otherwise they became unplayably fast (try playing old Gold Box D&D games on a 600Mhz P3 without special software).
 

The original Wing Commander is the one I remember most for being unplayable. 🙂

[Call Me Awesome]

9 hours ago, Hyperstrike said:

That's because the button could be wired backward, so the functionality was reversed..

Wired right, the basic purpose of the button was to allow chips faster than 4.77Mhz to run at full speed.
But you'd turn it off for games with times locked to the CPU, otherwise they became unplayably fast (try playing old Gold Box D&D games on a 600Mhz P3 without special software).

 

Yeah, those Gold Box D&D were some of the first games I ever played.  The first computer I owned was a 286 with I think an 8Mhz processor running DOS and an early EGA graphics card.  I played all of the Gold Box games... I think there were 4 altogether.  Anyway, in the early 90's I bought a 486DX and got a real shock when I decided to try those old games again.  Enter combat and ZAP, it's over before you blink.

 

I still recall how impressive the graphics on 7th Guest at the time.

[Hyperstrike]

4 hours ago, Call Me Awesome said:

Yeah, those Gold Box D&D were some of the first games I ever played.  The first computer I owned was a 286 with I think an 8Mhz processor running DOS and an early EGA graphics card.  I played all of the Gold Box games... I think there were 4 altogether.  Anyway, in the early 90's I bought a 486DX and got a real shock when I decided to try those old games again.  Enter combat and ZAP, it's over before you blink.

 

I still recall how impressive the graphics on 7th Guest at the time.

Yeah, I remember how slow the mass combat was when I originally played...
I played again on a much newer computer while I was in the Army, and I raced through!

[Glacier Peak]

Cool posts! I've been running this game at around high settings, getting between 10 and 144 fps. I think I'll upgrade to the RTX 3000 series in August to cap everything, though my twin frozr 1080 from MSI has been a champ.

 

System Specs:

Case: Corsair Carbide 275R

Mainboard: Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5

CPU: Intel i7-8700K

CPU Cooling: Corsair HYDRO SERIES H150i PRO RGB 360MM AIO

Hard Drives: Corsair Force MP500 120 GB M.2-2280 NVME SSD & Western Digital Black 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME SSD

Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory

GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB GAMING X 8G Video Card

Case Fans: Corsair ML 120MM x6

Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold

 

Peripherals

Monitors: (Left) LG 25UM56-P 25.0" 2560x1080 60 Hz Monitor

                 (Center) Acer Predator Gaming Z321QU bmiphzx Curved 31.5" WQHD (1440p x 144hz)

Mouse: CORSAIR Dark Core - RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

Keyboard: CORSAIR K63 Compact Mechanical Gaming Keyboard

Monitor Arm: WALI Premium Single LCD Monitor Desk Mount Fully Adjustable Gas Spring Stand for Display

 

[MunkiLord]

On 4/3/2020 at 10:34 PM, WanderingAries said:

Understandable, that's how my cellphone pics end up living for the most part. That and household projects I want to pre-pre-pre-plan. The rig up top is designed for Editing, Casual Gaming, and originally for Multi-OS booting (100% OSX compatible!). I stopped doing the last bit because I think it was messing with my system clock when swapping back to Windows. I now have a better understanding of how to isolate the OS', but haven't felt like playing with it again (considering I now have the MBP).

I'm a few months late on this, but I recently ran across this when dual booting Linux because Linux assumes UTC time and Windows assumes local time. I'm assuming it's the same issue with OSX and it's an easy fix via command line:  timedatectl set-local-rtc 1 --adjust-system-clock

 

Source: https://www.howtogeek.com/323390/how-to-fix-windows-and-linux-showing-different-times-when-dual-booting/

[WanderingAries]

On ‎7‎/‎30‎/‎2020 at 12:35 AM, MunkiLord said:

I'm a few months late on this, but I recently ran across this when dual booting Linux because Linux assumes UTC time and Windows assumes local time. I'm assuming it's the same issue with OSX and it's an easy fix via command line:  timedatectl set-local-rtc 1 --adjust-system-clock

 

Source: https://www.howtogeek.com/323390/how-to-fix-windows-and-linux-showing-different-times-when-dual-booting/

Hugh, that's something I'm not sure I'd known to have looked into. I just assumed they all started with the RTC and then adjusted based on UTC as needed.

[MunkiLord]

19 minutes ago, WanderingAries said:

Hugh, that's something I'm not sure I'd known to have looked into. I just assumed they all started with the RTC and then adjusted based on UTC as needed.

I've been playing with dual booting various Linux distros recently(just learning) and I found this very annoying. Today's failed install of Arch Linux caused it to happen to me again.

 

edit: Out of curiousity I searched for this issue specifically with OSX and every single thing I've read has fixed this via Windows registry and doesn't even mention changing anything in OSX.

Edited August 1, 2020 by MunkiLord

[Dahle]

I guess I want in... Consider I am not listing 2 additional Hard Drives that are purely for backup.  And as soon as I can possibly get my hands on a RTX 3090 GPU I will be swapping (can't come soon enough).

CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor  
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB PLATINUM SE 63 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX LGA1151 Motherboard 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (OS Installed)
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Documents/Pictures/Movies etc here)
Storage: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Games here)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB STRIX GAMING OC Video Card (Replacing - have a Razor X Core Chroma ready to go to mule this thing to a laptop)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL II-W ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.99 @ Adorama) 
Power Supply: Corsair 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB 32/64-bit 

Case Fan: Corsair LL120 63 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack
Case Fan: Corsair LL120 63 CFM 120 mm Fan
Case Fan: Corsair LL120 63 CFM 120 mm Fan
Monitor: Asus ROG Swift PG27VQ 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor 
Monitor: Acer XFA240 bmjdpr 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor
Monitor: Acer XFA240 bmjdpr 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor 
Monitor: Acer XFA240 bmjdpr 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor 
Monitor: Acer XFA240 bmjdpr 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor 
Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 SE Wired Gaming Keyboard 
Mouse: Logitech G502 SE HERO Wired Optical Mouse 
Headphones: SteelSeries ARCTIS 7 2019 Edition 7.1 Channel  Headset 
Mount: Mount-It! Stackable Dual Monitor Desk Mount, Height Adjustable VESA 75 and 100 Vertical Monitor Stand for Computer Screens 19, 20, 21, 24, 27, 29, 30, 32 Inches, Full Motion Adjustable Gas Spring Arms
Mount: Mount-It! Stackable Dual Monitor Desk Mount, Height Adjustable VESA 75 and 100 Vertical Monitor Stand for Computer Screens 19, 20, 21, 24, 27, 29, 30, 32 Inches, Full Motion Adjustable Gas Spring Arms
Mic: Blue Yeti USB Microphone (Cool Gray) Bundle with Knox Gear Boom Arm, Pop Filter and Shock Mount
Desk: UPLIFT L-Shaped Standing Desk V2 80" W x 78" W x 30" D x 27" D w/ Modesty Panels, Desk Extension and CPU Holder

Headset Stand: ST100 RGB Premium Headset Stand with 7.1 Surround Sound

Edited September 17, 2020 by Dahle

[Hyperstrike]

Yeah, Godzilla going to be going away (or at least morphing into a new form) around/after XMas this year.

Right now looking at either a Ryzen 7 3800XT or a Ryzen 9 3900X.

It's going to be essentially a an almost totally new computer inside the same case.

 

[Hyperstrike]

8 hours ago, Dahle said:

And as soon as I can possibly get my hands on a RTX 3090 GPU I will be swapping (can't come soon enough).

 

Yeah.  It's a cool piece of kit.  And I'll be jealous as hell.
But my Cheapass gene won out over my Hardware Fiend long ago.
I wouldn't say "no" if someone OFFERED one to me for free or for $5-600
But I can't justify spending $1500 on a video card.  Even if I CAN afford it.
Just the same way I'm looking at Ryzen 7 3800XT or Ryzen 9 3900X instead of the Threadripper 3990X.
CAN I drop $4K on a CPU?  Sure!  Wouldn't even miss the cash.
But can I get such a system to make ECONOMICAL sense?

Nope...